We are getting ready again to cast off. We may be a few nights on the hook and off the grid. Burley Bay, Belleisile, and then southward toward home.

Clearing weather across the confluence of Sutlej Channel and Wells Passage at 2130 hours. A welcome break in the soaking could last a couple of days.

I mentioned the sunshine this morning. Perhaps I should have been quiet. By the time we cast off from Echo Bay docks the wind was ushering a fresh bank of water logged clouds in over the Broughtons. Our departure was slightly later than planned or we might have escaped the soaking received upon arriving at Sullivan Bay. The delay occured dockside when in passing conversation with another transient boater, I asked if the couple had traveled up here much. This evoked a quick reply of yes, "we do the Waggoners Cruising Guide for northwest boaters. I'm Marylin and this is Bob". Sheepishly I expressed my appreciation of their work and added that this was our key reference for travels in the northwest waters. We talked awhile about sails versus motoryachts and favorite places to go. Marilynn said they were sailors in the early days of the project but when they "went to the dark side", they acquired this vintage Tolleycraft, named Surprise. Although not as stable in weather as their sailboat, Surprise is an able vessel and a comfortable couple's cruiser. I requested a quick snapshot to which they acquiesced and soon I had a few shots recorded with Bob's discriminating guidance.

We left Echo under sail but only briefly. The winds turned and the rain came. We arrived at Sullivan to be helpfully guided to a berth with a view of the surrounding waters and hills and were soon checking in at the General Store. We stocked up on a few dairy items and were handed a golfball upon clearing at the counter. "Tee time is at 5pm", the teller announced. We looked at each other and back to our informant. "Each boater has a shot at free moorage if you can hit a ball off the end of the floatplane dock and into the satellite dish floating in the bay". We chuckled and willingly took the ball and stepped back out into the rain.

Monday - 0800 hrs. The sun is shining! Our energy rises as this orb ascends the crystal blue morning skies. A few low hanging clouds linger in the surrounding hills and inlets giving that classic mystical northwest appearance. We will cast off today, this morning. One load of laundry, two showers, spark plugs replaced in the outboard and well rested we will head north again. We will overnight in Sullivan Bay and weather providing, swing across Queen Charlotte Strait southwest to begin our loop homeward. It is tempting to station Ohana at Sullivan for a few weeks, fly home and return in the warmth of August to bring her south but we are intrigued by the eastern reaches of the Johnstone region and may want to explore the "back passage" to Desolation Sound on this excursion. The area is vast. The lure of intriguing places is limitless. It has been a voyage of invaluable reconnaissance that only tempts further exploration.

The region at Echo Bay could arguably be the most visually appealing in a wide surrounding radius. The mountains tower above an open expanse of water at this confluence of several channels. Granite rock faces plunge into deep darkness yet islands and islets dot the vast openness. Marine and land dwelling wildlife abound. I'm not an expert but would venture a guess that we have seen both the Pacific White-sided dolphin and the Harbor Porpoise in these less open waters. The P.W. dolphin has a most noticeable hooked dorsal fin with a dark leading edge and tapered gray anterior. The H. porpoise is remarkably small with an unremarkable dorsal fin of very modest proportions. Neither show much interest in bow-riding and seem to be going about their own business prdominantly cruising the most turbulent waters with dedicated focus.

The sun is now higher in the morning sky and beckons us on our way. Austin is plotting our course. We will push against a flood tide from here to Sullivan, but at least we will do so in the sunshine!

HEY...HEeyyy....heeyyy....hey...... Yep, we're still at Echo Bay. Rain squalls and the appeal of mid afternoon naps had us content to remain tethered to the sturdy docks. Echo Bay is now run by Pierre (of Pierre's Marina just two bays north ). Pierre and Jerome (Seattlite and 40 year veteran of this area) bought Echo two years ago. This is their third season and they have the operation well in hand from a few indications. First are the impressively beefy docks with massive timbers and tie-ins that would put a smile on Paul Bunyan's face. The friendly reception dockside and clear directions as to the layout of the facilities allows the conversation to transition quickly to the social level. By pure coincidence, we landed on the innaguaral day of Pig Roast Saturdays. Pierre had been cooking since early in the morning and already there was a bustle on the docks of salivating boaters. Now it is not without regret of considerable magnitude that I say we did not partake of this fine swine sup but instead opted to troll the nearby waters for the elusive salmon...and BBQ chicken off our own back deck. We brought the motor to near idle as we re-entered the bay and passed the pig roast in full swing. The smell of the slow roasted pig evoked stronger gastronomic growls as if our stomachs were voicing protest at our decision. Cold, wet and hungry we tied our dinghy behind Ohana and clamored into our cockpit, silently salmonless. We would try again the next day.

Residents of SeaVillage reflecting in conversation on their open porch as the evening light cools the day's ambitions. Echo Bay dwellers live in prime fishing country. Salmon, Ling cod and halibut can be hooked directly off the docks. Prawns and crabs are plentiful only a short dinghy ride away. Property development is being pushed here as this locale remains an active hub for fishing excursions and boat travel into the Broughtons and the Inside Passage.

An eclectic dwelling at the mouth of Echo Bay. This house barge is called Windsong Harbour Barge and belongs to the Seavillage resort of the same name. SeaVillage sits adjacent to Echo Bay Resort on the facing shore of the same bay.

The pilot flew cleanly through the mountain passes below the gray clouds that hung a few hundred feet above the Burdwood Group. We were trolling for kings in the nearby waters as he slid smoothly in to the cove of Echo Bay and taxied to his front porch. "Honey, I'm home"

Austin manages the course for the day and reviews the chart plotter and enters way points. We are especially interested in exploring the Burdwood Group today. The Burdwoods are low lying rocky islets centrally located in the confluence of Fife Sound, Cramer Pass, Tribune Channel and Sutlej Channel. The views of surrounding mountains are inspiring but care must be taken to focus at the water level as Burdwoods demand careful navigation.

Lacy Falls at the northwest end of Watson Cove slides down a 250 foot sheer granite face plunging directly into the salty bay. The depth of the water allows sailors to venture to the base of the cascade - a remarkably unique experience. At the base one can look up beyond the lower cascade to view falls a thousand feet above and then granite faces two thousand feet above the upper falls. The still camera is hard pressed to capture the perspective.

Leaving Kwatsi Bay looking back up Thompson Sound and the surrounding snow capped peaks of nearly 5000 feet towering above sea level. Narrow channels, surging currents make for a most dynamic setting where Nature's forces are in awesome display.

Ziggy (Ziegfried Rogge) and Terry Lynn were our dockmates at Kwatsi Bay. They have traveled the northwest inside passage extensively and were a wealth of knowledge on all points of interest. Strategies for timing and running rapids, best prawning techniques, latest marina developments in the area, bear areas, hidden bays...the list goes on. Ziggy's brother from Dusseldorf will join them this summer as they head toward Prince Rupert Sound.

Quaint and rustic defines the atmosphere and facilities and Kwatsi Bay. Max runs a casual operation which promotes easy going socializing with all the basics covered. The facilities are perched over the water on docks in various states of repair - shower, store, and office are on different platforms joined by weathered 2 x 12 x 12 foot planks. Be careful though, the planks will shift with the tides. This morning, we found the planks leading to shore were in the water and needed to be grabbed with the pike pole left on the dock for that purpose.

Ohana dockside in the morning below the surrounding cliffs of Kwatsi Bay. We collected a decent batch of prawns ( 14 large spotted) this morning from the trap set yesterday and supplemented our northwest scramble breakfast.

Austin on the oars of the "Falls Skiff". The hills in the background are actually 4500 feet high! The entire bay is surrounded by these magnificent rocky giants.

Austin at Kwatsi falls

Exploring a nearby falls at Kwatsi Bay. We rowed the old aluminum skiff, designated the Falls skiff, to the trailhead. A short hike up the overgrown trail revealed a two hundred foot cascade over shear granite. We toted our camera and boat horn (bear horn) and kept a vigilant eye on the thick fern ladened understory. On our approach to Kwatsi Bay we spotted one rotund black bear meandering along the shore, so there was no doubt with whom we were sharing the surroundings. The area also is home to grizzlies, hence the horn. We saw the falls, took a picture and were soon comfortably rowing out away from shore. Not so rough as we look.

We enjoyed a fine run with the wind up Knight Inlet on our way Kwatsi Bay

Tides are swinging more than 15 feet exposing a colorful array of sea flora. The swings provide great tide currents, as much as 7 knots in some passages. Anchorages can be a bit tricky as well.

Our crab trap rests quietly astern of Ohana in Waddington Bay after a peaceful and unproductive night. During most of our stay we were treated to a pair of nesting bald eagles who used the rock islet behind the crab pot as a staging platform from which to launch their nest building atop a nearby fir.

One of the numerous Spout Islets protects our anchorage from NW winds and the swells of the more open waters of Blackfish Sound and Queen Charlotte Strait

Well rested from the night at Spout Islets, Austin brings us through the mixed and strong currents swirling around Stubbs island en route to Port McNeil amid the driving rain. Earlier in the morning we were treated to the bow riding antics of five very enthusiastic Dall porpoises. Their leaps and dives persisted for more than a half hour.

At Port McNeil we will resupply, top off our water and head toward the Broughton's Waddington Bay on Bonwick Island. Mixed showers and sunbreaks are predicted.

Chief navigator pleased with the day's work enjoying our secluded anchorage at Spout Islets. He was soon dreaming of tomorrow's route as the serenity of bird songs and lapping tidal waters brought on a peaceful sleep in the gently rocking cockpit. I would roust him a couple of hours later at 2230 to report that I was retiring to quarters. The helm was his for the night if he would chose.

0700, 22 june: The view over our shoulder, east up Sunderland Channel was pure northwest mystical. This was a welcome beginning to what would be a rare relatively windless day on Johnstone Strait. With favorable weather at hand, we opted for our longer day's destination and passed up Havannah Channel, our previously planned "duck in" for lunch at the Burial Cove to wait out the tide change. A slight SE wind was now assisting and tides against were negligible so we pressed onward toward Telegraph Cove. En route, we were delighted to hear our former slipmates, from Campbell River aboard Buenaventura, conversing with their traveling sistership, Moonshadow. They had evidently weathered their push up Johnstone against 30 knots of wind and their better judgement. They had begrudgingly complied with Moonshadow's urging to press on and make for Billygoat Bay on Helmcken Island amid Race and Current Passages in the worsening conditions of driving wind and surging current. Their last communication was saturated with salt spray and waning enthusiasm for the whole affair as Don in Eyore like tone said "Awwlright" to the piglet like excited plea by Moonshadow to join them in Billygoat. "We'll save an anchorage fafafor you", exclaimed Moonpiglet. Now, on a new day and under calm conditions and like disposition, Don was realying to Moonshadow their intentions to press on to Port Hardy in part to make some repairs from the recent roughing up they experienced. Moonshadow, with undiminished verve, expressed happiness at finding their now somewhat questioning companions. "Don, great to hear from you again!" Apparently, Don and Heather had taken a break from their surging guide into the jaws of Johnstone. "Hi Bob", Don drolled. "Don, how have you guys been?" Not expecting a response, Bob lurched forward. "Don, I hooked a huge one today! Took all my line and broke loose! Now that's a fish story. "What were you using Bob?", Don feigned interest. "A spoon. A big spoon. Just trolling. He took it all! You got any crabs yet Don?" "Nope, had one but it was too small", Don almost sighed. "Oh, Don! We have two nice crabs already in the fridge. Ok, well we will move our plans up and meet you at Port Hardy tomorrow. So Don, expect us for dinner!" "Ok Bob", you could almost feel Heather's eyes boring into Don's scalp. Who knows, perhaps they will find harmony as they move slinky like down the west coast over the next six weeks... on holiday.

21 June: On the hook at Douglas Bay in Forward Harbour. We anchored in 60 feet a couple hundred yards off shore in sticky mud. Despite the early season, we made an even dozen vessels sharing the bay. The cove offers unrivaled protection from all directions and provides a strategic launch pad to the Broughtons and points north. NW winds course up Sunderland Channel from Johnstone Strait and hit the beach at Bessborough Bay and are dampened by the forest between Bessborough and Douglas Bay leaving the sheltered boats at peaceful anchor. We opted to stay aboat and forego the hike through bear country to Bessborough but listened with interest to others hiking through the forest clanging their pots and pans. The view from the cockpit was more than satisfying. Snow still caps most tall mountains in the region adding a sense of chill to the air. Sleep was uninterrupted but nature's lights did not dim until nearly 2300 hours. We awoke at 0430 the next morning and had the hook up and were on our way by 0600.

0900 - Skies are mixed. Sun broken, low gray clouds scurrying on a NW wind to destinations past. We will leave Blind Channel in a couple of hours on the final pulse of the flood tide. We will ride the remnant of flood to the confluence with Phillips Channel and turn NW with the slack and beginning ebb through Green Point Rapids. We are heading toward the Broughton Achipelago, the largest marine park in BC. Today's destination will be Forward Harbor, and an excellent opportunity for bear sightings. Literature advises to carry pots and pans as you trundle over to the bathing beach at Bessborough. The hardware may be employed to call the bears to your cookout. Evidently they enjoy a picnic. Tuesday represents our first good chance to reappear in Johnstone Strait without the strong northwesterlies that have persisted for the past few days. Weather permitting we will make for Chatham Channel and the entrance to the southern Broughtons on Wednesday. A few days are planned for the Broughtons but months are needed to explore this natural haven with a human history dating back 12,000 years. The area is remote so there should be much to communicate toward the end of the week as we either turn SE toward Desolation or NW toward Telegraph Cove - we shall see...

A fine start to Dad's day. Off to fish the SE point above Green Rapids at 0800. Within three minutes we had hooked a three foot ling cod. A twenty minute battle ensued on light gear and ended with a swift well timed scoop of the net. Timing on the flood current was fortunate as well because the water was beginning to pulse and carry us around the nearby islets and toward the head of the rapids. We tethered the large ling to the dinghy, started our trusty Tohatsu and made "upriver" along shore returning to the quiet of Blind Channel's dock.

Later today, we may partake of the Dad's day BBQ offered by the resort (local beef and sockeye) and simply enjoy our first duff day since leaving Bainbridge four very full days ago.

Also, despite the remote location (no AT&T connection), we can enjoy great wireless service and gobble up more information about our next potential ports of call.

16 June - A cold start to the voyage but Austin logs trip plans into the chartplotter to keep the mind warm.

We entered the peaceful refuge of Deep Bay at sunset (2130 hrs) on the east coast of Vancouver Island adjacent to Denman Island. Plans to anchor at Hornby's Tribune Bay were thwarted by 20 knots wind driven waves. Always good to have a backup plan.

Thursday, June 17 began at my usual wake up time of 0530 hrs. I'm awake. The view through the forward berth hatch is gray. I blink. Is it the fog outside or the fog in my morning head? Another look with conscious concentration and the gray view persists. the random processing of waking thoughts now engages the topic of fog and the possible ramifications. We may have to sit until the soup clears. we could still go with radar and GPS chart plotter. Really, there is no hurry. My mind circles the topic like a wandering visit to the zoo. After seeing the monkeys for the third time, I roll out of bed and pad over to the gangway hatch and peer out past our cockpit to see our neighbors charred BBQ grill clearly still hanging off of its stern mount, a blackened monument to last night's dinner or some domestic ceremony. So it is confirmed. Visibility is fine beneath a solid gray sponge of clouds.

We cast off our mooring buoy at 0630 and made for Dodd Narrows by way of Swanson Channel to Trincomali Channel through the Houstoun Passage to Stuart Channel all to favor the best tidal current and avoid the apposing morning ebb.

At 1330 we were perched above Dodd with others awaiting the turn at 1420. At 1400 we slid into the narrows to meet the lingering current (about 1.5 knots) but pushed our way through to exit the north side near slack.

At 1600 hours we passed Schooner Cove with following seas and a 10 knot SW wind and elected to make for Hornby. The freshly updated marine weather forecast told of SW winds building to 15 knots in the evening but subsiding to light NE winds by early Friday morning. This confirmed our deision but still we planned for a backup if conditions worsened. Seas gradually built from 2 feet, to 3 feet and yes to four feet with frothy tops. We reached our "decision" way point just five miles out from Hornby, we laughed and quickly agreed it was time to execute the backup. We came round 90 degrees and made for the protection of Deep Bay... across the faces of four footers. Staysail and reefed jib were deployed to afford some stability as we crab walked toward our destination. Ohana rode like the seaworthy ship she is as the game of tag with bull waves continued for the next hour. So we made our way rocking, rolling and lurching to the beat of clanging pots, pans and dishes being hammered by some crazed Caribbean cook in our galley.

At 2130 hours we ducked into Deep Bay, past the fish farm to the public docks nestled beneath the protective arm of the quiet cove. A jumble of vessels of various ages, size and denomination were wedged into the otherwise voluminous dock space. We eventually found an open space at the most inland reach of the docks and carefully moored nose to nose with another sail vessel and Ohana's derriere dangling out past the stern section of dock. We were secure for the night. Within thirty minutes a spray-drenched Search and Rescue vessel glided past and tied up just past our "nose" partner. I was quickly topside and over to confer with seaman who was already hosing down the bright orange pontoons. "A bit rough today", I broke in. "Yep, we were out on high speed rescue drills", he replied with a salty grin. I inquired as to my position on the dock and he nonchalantly said, "It's a private dock for the yacht club, but it's ok they allow reciprocal moorage for other clubs. Are you from a reciprocal club?" "Well, I doubt it", I said hopefully apologetic. "Suppose I could still stay?" "I don't see why not. Just pay the public dockmaster up at that white office building." He wagged his head across the maze of sleeping boats as he continued to spray off the salt. "Thanks", I replied and returned to Ohana to prepare dinner and fall into bed.

Austin brought us in to Blind Channel. Wind peaked at 30 knots as we ducked out of Johnstone Strait. Skies were clear as the highest grade of sapphire reflecting sunlight off of water to match.

Arrived Blind Channel at 1600 hrs. We enjoyed a smooth run through Seymour Narrows even sharing the passage with a tug and large tow. Correspondence with the tug captain via VHF CH16 made certain we both knew the other's intentions. A blustery run to Johnstone Strait in 20 knot winds on our nose made for a bit slower journey than expected but with favorable ebbing tide we kept over 6 knots of pace. Wind grew to 25 knots as we approached Ripple Point (big ripples) and we ducked into Blind Channel for a quick run the the BC Resort. We are at the dock now for the night. Already took a short hike to an 800 year old cedar tree and noticed some relatively fresh bear scat on our return. We finished the hike with eyes more up than on the trail and amused ourselves with talk of dinner, both ours and the bears.

1019 hrs - Too much write about and too little time at the moment. We must catch the slack at Seymour Narrows on our way to Blind Channel this afternoon. Other neighboring vessels are casting off with the same intentions so we are soon to follow suit. Much data and reconnaissance collected to navigate safely northward. We made customs clearance on our first day. Bedwell reached by 1900 hrs from Bainbridge departure at 0730. The following day saw a 2100 hrs arrival at Deep Bay near Denman Island in the Georgia Strait - a welcome safe harbour from the SW blow on the Strait. And now we depart Campbell with full water and 3/4 fuel and provisions to take our time meandering through the eastern reaches of Johnstone Strait. Winds and tides are always on our mind. Short passages are the rule. Hope to Blog with more leisure soon.

This year's voyage north with Ohana will test new waters, skills that we have and some that we will discover. Stepping into these natural environs with considerable forces of water and weather invites a variety of tests. But this is just Nature's way of strengthening all creatures. Navigating the Northwest waters demands one's attention to a process of testing, discovery and adaptation. Plan and prepare but be aware and flexible. So again , Ohana will transport us into a world of swirling dark currents, gale winds, fog enshrouded reefs, as well as sun drenched secluded bays, gamboling dolphins and downwind reaches over sparkling water. Yes, this will be another voyage of great horizons.

Tomorrow, Austin and I will ride the ebb tide out of Puget Sound, cross the strait of Juan de Fuca and catch the flood pushing northward into the San Juan Islands. Weather permitting, we will drop our hook in the waters of Bedwell Harbour and await the morning for customs clearance and favorable tide to begin carrying us to the northernmost tip of Vancouver Island.